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Digital material parameters impact realistic simulation and fit.

Precise and consistent digital material parameters are the key to the successful use of 3D technologies for visualization and technical fit prototyping.

Digital material parameters affect all stages of simulation.

  1. Simulation based on pattern and textile-physical parameters, not color or texture
  2. "Sketch" to discuss style and color
  3. Complete digital prototype, including color, texture and accessories

Is there an industry standard for material digitization?

No, and this creates several challenges.

  • Each 3D program requires its own parameters and sample sizes, uses different names and units and recommends different testing kits and devices
  • Testing is time consuming and results are linked to a single software system
  • Without adjustment for the software's algorithm, materials look and behave differently in each program, even if all data is entered correctly
  • Manual testing without professional equipment leads to inconsistent visualization

Hohenstein has created a universal approach and is leading standardization efforts.

Digital Material Libraries and Swatchbooks

Digital Libraries

Create faster with a material data library.

Default libraries are limited in scope and tied to one system. Purchased digital libraries can be inconsistent and unreliable. Neither match the fabrics being used.

Hohenstein works with brands, manufacturers and mills to digitize fabric collections based on tested data.

Designers access digitized materials that correlate exactly to the fabrics they have chosen. Suppliers reach digital designers while ensuring their fabric is represented accurately, no matter what platform the customer is using.

  • Correlate libraries to collections
  • Secure reproducible results between software systems and seasons
  • Get physical products that match digital designs
  • Trust data, even for complex fabrics

Add digital data to physical swatch books.

Combine the haptic experience with digital material parameters.

Including digital material parameters in swatch books is becoming as important as composition and weight.

Our swatch book data includes the inputs for specific platforms, allowing designers to see and feel the fabric samples they are using, then accurately design in 3D.

We can either create the data for your own swatch books or produce the books for you.

"We recognize the value in getting your hands on the material. Even if the process is digital, these products are still being designed by - and for - humans.”

- Simone Morlock, Head of Hohenstein’s Digital Fitting Lab

Hohenstein Universal Translator Approach

Goal: standardize material digitization for consistent results across platforms
Hohenstein Development

Hohenstein Research

We analyzed the different requirements, data formats, units and results of the various 3D systems. After narrowing the test parameters to five essential textile-physical tests, we formulated a conversion that ensures consistent visualization and behavior across the different systems.

5 Parameters

Top 5 Digital Fabric Parameters

  • Weight
  • Thickness
  • Bending
  • Elongation
  • Fold volume shape

Hohenstein Fabric and Accessory Digitizing Process

1. Testing

Textile-physical Testing

  • Weight (DIN EN 12172)
  • Thickness (DIN EN ISO 5084)
  • Bending (Cantilever Method - DIN 53362: 2003-10)
  • Elongation/Stretch in warp, weft and bias directions (DIN EN ISO 13934-1 or DIN 53835 T14)
  • Drapabaility - Fold volume & shape (DIN EN ISO 9073-9:2008)
Optional: Texture

Optional: Texture Scanning

(Common fabric texture software sytems include Substance Designer, Substance Alchemist, X-Tex, etc.)
2. Processing

Test Result Processing

  • Convert the units
  • Create individual file formats
  • Generate draping images
3. Data Export

Data Export for Digital Platforms

Examples of digitized materials for common systems:

Physical Parameters vs Texture

Physics vs Optics

Form and Function vs Appearance

  • Textile-physical parameters define the draping and influence the fit of a garment
  • Texture defines the optics and are required for photorealistic simulation
Texture Maps

Physics-Based Rendering (PBR)

Most important properties for texture simulation:

  • Color map of surface
  • Normal map of relief, dents and bumps of the surface
  • Roughness map of how strongly the surface reflects light
  • Height map of the digital mesh
  • Opacity map of transparency

Digital Fabric Physics

Hohenstein Academy Webcast

Fitting Complements

Apparel Innovation

Product development requires solutions tailored to the application.
Ben Mead
Managing Director
Hohenstein Americas